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Harma Blog Break .
29. April 2024
Isn't the selvedge something to worry about in a later stage? It seems to me a lot more important th...
Beatrix Experiment!
23. April 2024
The video doesn´t work (at least for me). If I click on "activate" or the play-button it just disapp...
Katrin Spinning Speed Ponderings, Part I.
15. April 2024
As far as I know, some fabrics do get washed before they are sold, and some might not be. But I can'...
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I have seen you say few times that "no textile ever is finished before it's been wet and dried again...
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Ah, that's good to know! I might have a look around just out of curiosity. I've since learned that w...
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Kruseler and Hairdos, Part IV

Before this gets buried too deep in the stack of posts that have yet to be finished, here is part IV of the Kruseler and Hairdo series. My original plan was to illustrate the description with photos, but I'm not very good at taking pictures of my own back of head, and I won't get around to have some taken soon enough.
Should you try to follow these instructions and keep getting utterly lost, you can tell me in the comment section, and I will try to provide some crude illustration.

The updo I used as the kruseler foundation is commonly called a "log roll", or at least I only know it under this name.

To make a log roll, you do the following:
  • Grow hair. You will probably need mid-back hair or bottom-length hair at least. Fine hairs can usually do it with hair on the shorter end, thick-haired ladies (or guys, of course) need more length.
  • Gather hair together in a low ponytail, and hold the ponytail with one hand.
  • With the free hand, grasp the hanging end of the tail and wrap it upwards and towards your head over the hand holding the tail. Your first hand should now have hair looped around it.
  • Open the hand in the loop slightly, keeping the base of the loop together with the other hand. Now you twist the hand in the loop - this will form a sort of twine underneath the loop. While twisting, pull the hand gently and slowly away from your head, to elongate the twist below the loop.
  • Stop pulling and twisting when the twisted section is as long as the back of your head or only slightly longer. You should now have the twisted section, coming from the base of your starting ponytail, and a free-hanging tail of hair coming out of the twist.
  • With one hand, hold the twisted section up by the loop so there is some space between the twist and your head. With the free hand, wrap the tail of hair still free around the twist, covering it gradually from bottom to top. That is why you need the length.
  • Tuck ends underneath to hide them. Settle finished log roll on your head, going straight up the middle, and secure with your method of choice. Until the roll is firmly secured on your head, always keep hold of the loop, or the roll will uncoil, and you have to start over.

This is one of my staple updos, since it is fast and well-balanced and does not look bad. But for modern living, I do it only as a single bun worn on the back of the head, not with parted hair and put up on the temples. It is also possible to logroll a braid, something I also do pretty often, but this will not give the sleek look of the "hair horns" that can be seen on the Arnolfini wedding picture, and that was my model for this try.

My main problem is getting the two humps symmetrical and then fixing them securely. They must be firm enough not only to support themselves, but also the (admittedly light) veil, which I pin to the lumps.
I know I'm not the only person wearing or trying to wear a kruseler - so what are your experiences? Have you had problems with the symmetrical arrangement? How do you fix your fabric to the head? How long does it keep in shape?

And most importantly: If you had one single question to ask a medieval kruseler-wearing lady, what would you ask her?
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Blog Carnival!

I got stuck reading a gazillion of medieval and medievalism-themed blogs yesterday evening by following the link to the last s.

In case you do not know it yet, Carnivalesque is a blog carnival (something like a showcase for interesting blog posts), alternating between early modern (from 1500 to 1800) and ancient & medieval (until 1500).

The next Carnivalesque is due for February, 21, and it is hosted by Notorious Ph.D. Now I'm off to look for my favourite medieval-themed post to nominate, before it is too late.
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Hairnets, part I

I like hairnets. I also like making them - it is a nice thing to do with the hands, without much thinking. My nets, however, are a far cry from some of those medieval ones that are still extant.
A lot of people know the nets found in London - with mesh sizes between 3 and 9 mm, depending on the net. But they are really simple.

Now take this one, as one of the not-too-elaborate nets. We don't know where it comes from, unfortunately, since it was bought via art trade, but it has been dated to the last quarter of the 13th century. Nowadays, it is in the Art Museum in Düsseldorf.

(picture clickable for larger version)


Diameter is 33 cm, and it has been worked in green and white silk. I had to tune up the colours on the scan, and now it should be easy to see where the green and where the white silk was used. I would have expected the small, embroidered shields-with-arms on a white background. Shame on my modern mind - green it is. The arms are embroidered in spun silk and gilded silver wrapped around a textile core. The ground for embroidering was coarsely woven linen. Some of the arms have been identified: there's six times Sayn and eight times Geldern, pointing to the Middle or Lower Rhine region. The net might have served for a wedding or proposal ceremony. In addition to the 38 arms, there's a little six-petaled rosette in the middle of the net.

The netting should not be too hard to do, using two different-size gauges for the long white and the small green meshes. My rough estimate is 3-4 mm for the small green mesh and about 1.5 cm length for the long white mesh - which is "not very small" for green and "exceptionally large" for white. It would be very interesting to see it close up, and in good detail, to see whether it was worked in spirals or in rounds, and whether the colour thread not in use was cut off or just led down for the next colour change. Any odd joints caused by this could be covered up easily with the embroidery bits sewn on later.

Source for the net picture and information: FANSA, MAMOUN (Hrsg.): der sassen speyghel. Sachsenspiegel - Recht - Alltag. Beiträge und Katalog zur Ausstellung "Aus dem Leben gegriffen - Ein Rechtsbuch spiegelt seine Zeit". Bd. Beiheft 10, Band 2, Archäologische Mitteilungen aus Nordwestdeutschland. Oldenburg 1995.
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How is that with timing?

Somehow, work with due dates seems to attract other work with similar due dates. While I was not exactly ahead of schedule, I was not too much behind either - until last week, when some additional writing work with a due date came up. Yes, I got a good start on the addition already, which helps.
Still, now I am behind schedule - so no long, elaborate blog post for today!
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Grocery Box

A few weeks ago, we made an order for something that feels like an everyday adventure to me: We subscribed for an organic produce box. A smallish company in our region offers home delivery every week, with an assortment of fruits and vegetables, organically produced - and you can even opt for regional vegetables only, which leaves you with truly seasonal food.

I love this box. First of all, there's less grocery shopping to be done: We still buy the few things we use in larger quantities, potatoes and occasionally onions, at our normal grocery store. But the big deal about shopping for fruit and vegetables, for me, was always choosing. Having to decide between produce that was grown locally or imported in - or between buying imported food or nothing at all, in some cases. Then choosing what to get. The things well-known, with the preparation down pat? Or something else for a different taste (that might not please)? Since I am one lazy bugger, I ended up on the familiar grounds most of the time.

That is now a problem of the past.

While you can opt out for some of veggies or fruits you don't like, the subscription box will arrive, and there's probably something new in it from time to time - just what I had wished for. They even add a sheet of paper with information and a recipe suggestion for the more exotic things. Before the box, I was looking for recipes in the internet to get inspiration on what to buy. Nowadays, I'm just googling the main vegetable ingredient I want to use and browse through the hits until I find something that sounds appealing. Which has added a touch of adventure to cooking - exactly what I had hoped for. And there is much difference between "not buying something" and "canceling an order for something" - though I usually check a week before what we will get. (Because I'm also very, very curious.)

Is it cheap? No. Our grocery bill has gone up significantly with the box - but so has the amount of fruit and vegetables consumed. And the quality of the foods way surpasses what we can usually get, each and every single piece. There's even a refund should something have gone bad inside, unnoticed by the handlers.

Is it convenient? Well, yes and no. Yes, because the time spent in grocery stores, produce aisles or farmers' markets is cut down to or close to zero. On the other hand, you have to be there when they deliver or have an arrangement, perhaps with a neighbor to receive the box for you (and hand back the empty one).

Is it worth it? In my opinion: Totally. Which is why I write about it here (instead of about medieval garments like I'm supposed to).
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Word Count vs. Character Count

I've been wondering a long time now about the differences in the writing guidelines in Germany versus those in other (English language) countries.

Did it ever strike you as curious that in the English language, the length of texts (maximum or minimum) is given in words - as in "this novel is complete at 100,000 words", while German regulations for submission are given in characters - as in "no more than 40,000 characters"*.

And so I find myself writing a short and a long text with character count "not more than" in both cases and I wonder why there is that difference. After all, there are long and short words in both languages, and I'd suspect that when the difficulty level of the text rises, so does the average word length. So why count words? Is this better possible in English than in German? Or is it some "historical reason"? Or do the Germans just want it that much more exact?** And why does MS Word include a character count, but not a (complete) word count when that is needed much more often (since there are much more English language writers than German)?***


And, the most important question of them all: Why did I not manage to get my characters counted properly yesterday, in spite of having used "Extras - Word Count" so often before?



*I'm not using the proper German 40.000 here, to avoid confusion - but I think it is funny that 40.000 and 40,000 mean different things in English and German. Talk about confusing.

** Yes, I know, that is so cliché. But did you know that because listing these huge numbers of characters for a text can be daunting, there's a conversion into "Normseiten", standard pages, that are usually worth about 1.500 characters. Which makes those figures much, much smaller.

*** You can of course download and install an add-in for MS Word. It might be useful for you (I only have it for fun - well, mostly). You can find "Complete WordCount" at Shauna Kelly's site - together with a lot of hints for using Word efficiently.
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Book & Newsletter News

I am spending way too much time staring at my newsletter program (it's Birdigee's Newsletter Manager, by the way). The newsletter campaign I started exactly one week ago is coming along extremely well, and my webpage has never before seen so many people - you are all really amazing!

I have received additional mails with helpful hints, and I have also gotten requests for the table of contents. I'm looking into all of them, and I am happy to announce that I have just uploaded not only the "Inhaltsverzeichnis" (TOC), but also a snippet of the text as preview. So if you would like to have a peek into my (German language) book about medieval garments and tailoring techniques, click over to my webpage and see for yourself if you might want a copy once it is out. And if you do so, please subscribe to the newsletter to let me know!
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