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Beatrix Experiment!
23. April 2024
The video doesn´t work (at least for me). If I click on "activate" or the play-button it just disapp...
Katrin Spinning Speed Ponderings, Part I.
15. April 2024
As far as I know, some fabrics do get washed before they are sold, and some might not be. But I can'...
Kareina Spinning Speed Ponderings, Part I.
15. April 2024
I have seen you say few times that "no textile ever is finished before it's been wet and dried again...
Katrin How on earth did they do it?
27. März 2024
Ah, that's good to know! I might have a look around just out of curiosity. I've since learned that w...
Heather Athebyne How on earth did they do it?
25. März 2024
...though not entirely easy. I've been able to get my hands on a few strands over the years for Geor...
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Presentation Video (in German)

A good while ago, I had a lovely trip to Vienna, where I gave a presentation which was also streamed online and recorded. So once I returned home, I put "check out and link to recording" on my to-do-list. 

And then, as things go, it took a while for it to be processed and uploaded, and in the meantime my to-do-list did some growing... so the item wandered ever further down the list. There's a stack of items in that part, things I'd like to do or check out but that are neither urgent nor really important, and they sit there waiting, patiently, for their day to come.

Once in a while, I scroll down the list to that half-forgotten part, and sometimes I drag an item back up to the top... and then sometimes-sometimes, I actually deal with it. 

In this case, here you are, the presentation I gave in Vienna:

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I hope you enjoy it! 

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Bayeux Embroidery.

In case you're looking for a bit of embroidery input, my fabulous colleague Alexandra Makin is working on a Bayeux-related project, and her newest update is available on YouTube. She's talking about how to transfer the design in that installation: 

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This is right on top of my list of things to watch now - I'm very much looking forward to finding out more about how she will handle this! 

For my own projects, I've usually traced the design, using a window or a table (depending on how strong the lines on the design original were, and how thick the fabric was) and went at it with my iron gall ink. More rarely I did use the pounce method with charcoal dust and then tracing with ink, and even more rarely I've done freestyle drawing with charcoal, followed by tracing what I was happy with in ink. (Or, extremely rarely because of the small project size, just using the charcoal lines.)

I always find it fascinating to find out more about the original tracings on fabric, and especially to see how much, in many cases, the embroiderers just did as freestyle shading. That, however, is often hard to see, as you usually have either the drawing (when the threads fell out and are lost) or the embroidery (hiding all lines drawn on the fabric)...

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There's a Chosen One.

The fabric reconstruction project I was writing about on Friday? I've seen images of the two (quite similar) textile fragments now that will be our aim, and they are really, really beautiful.

At least to my eyes, that is.

Objectively, they are nothing really spectacular. 2/2 twill, with a hard-spun warp and a softer-spun, thicker weft. The warp, as is usual, in z and the weft in s; the fibres look quite thick and shiny. With only about 5-8 threads per centimeter, the fabrics are not even really fine, which is a good thing in this case - as much as I'm tickled by the idea of one day trying to recreate a really fine fabric (preferably one with a spin patterning, that would be extra cool), as we're a little short regarding the timeframe, I'm happy to have a bit less to spin. 

Next step: Test spinning! With the aim of spinning a yarn as similar as possible to that in the original piece. Which is always including some guesstimation, because the yarn will change when the twist is set, and then again when it's in the weave...

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Calculations.

It's looking like there will be an exciting fabric reconstruction project in the near future - the very near future, as our time-until-delivery is uncomfortably short. Which, to be fair, is anything less than 12 months for most fabric reconstruction projects.

The issue is that there's a lot of steps involved, and they can take quite a bit of time, plus there's also the lag time for cooperative projects that one has to figure in. And fabric reconstructions are usually cooperative projects, it's rather rare that one single person does all the research, all the spinning, and all the weaving single-handedly. 

Fabric reconstruction projects are exciting, and I love them, but they are beasts. Beasts, I can tell you.

First it starts with choosing a fabric - it has to fit the timeframe, and there has to be enough data available on it. Ideally, it's a large enough fragment to get a good impression of yarn style (thickness and regularity or irregularity, though most yarns are pretty evenly spun), how the fabric looks, and it's a jackpot if there's a selvedge involved, though we're not going to get greedy. 

Fibre analysis would also be nice, because using a different yarn from a different sheep breed's wool will also make a difference. Not all of the original finds had a fibre analysis done, and that is usually "just" a histogram of thicknesses at best, no information about curl, crimp, or fibre length. Because I don't have a microscope that's really suited to do fibre thickness measurements, I'm also sort of depending on help in that department. Which means... time. 

Then there's the first task of finding a suitable modern material, in a suitable form of prep. In theory, one could get the raw fibre and do the prep as part of the project, but then we're talking a few extra months, and a lot of extra hours - probably more than an even generous budget would support. (Unless it's a tiny piece of fabric that is planned to get woven. Once we're in the proper production range, we're quite soon at talking kilograms. Processed, mind you.)

Then there's test spinning, and test weaving, to figure out if things will work out as they are intended to do. Or, to put it better, if there's a good chance they will - if you're a knitter, and have been lied to by one (or more) of your swatches, you'll know exactly what I am getting at. Smaller pieces will give an impression on whether this should be workable or not, or if there's something extremely off, but the big piece will always behave differently than the small test cloth.

Afterwards, there's the spinning - to the specifications that are now more or less fixed, according to the data from the original and the results of the weaving test. And then, as the last step, the Moment of Truth (TM) - the actual weaving of the thing.

Since the last larger project, I have a little excel sheet for calculating the amounts of yarn that I need to spin for a piece with given measurements and thread count, to get a rough estimate of spinning time necessary. Unfortunately, spinning time can also vary quite a lot depending on the yarn style and the fibre, even when using the same spinning tool. (Which in my case, due to time and budget considerations, is usually the e-spinner.) Again, of course I can take the time when I test-spin for the test-weave, and I do - but just like swatches can lie, the test-spinning speed can lie as well. So it's an estimate only, and has to be taken with a grain of salt.

Well, my current calculations say that the fabric might be possible with only about 60 hours of spinning time, plus the test spinning time... that's not too bad, right? 

The data I need for the current project-in-the-stage-of-hope will hopefully come together during the next week, and then I will have to get started spinning as quickly as possible. Because in textile reconstruction terms, September is... tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed for me that things will work out!

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It's not Friday yet.

Not Friday yet... but almost. Almost! However, there's three more things on my to-do-list for today that need doing, so I'd better move on. One of the things already checked off today?

Making more bands for distaffs, both for the DIY kits (provide your own stick) and for the ready-made distaffs. 

That's always a nice, calm bit of work - cutting the bands, then hemming one end (the free end, once the band is attached to the distaff). A little bit of really easy sewing, perfect to listen to a podcast or something similar while doing it.

There's also been some cutting of pin shanks, some yarn winding, and some printing of instructions - so I'm slowly getting there again. Now there's a little more writing work to be done, and then dressing distaffs to send them off for the workshop tomorrow. Plus more writing, plus some planning for exhibition stuff.

Well, it is certainly not getting boring around here!

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More Whorls!

The latest delivery of spindle whorls has arrived - just in time, as I was running low on some of the weight ranges. It's always making me happy to sort the new whorls into stock...

...and then send them off to new homes, one by one, as they get ordered. There's quite often some rummaging when I get requests for a specific shape or colour, or for both - so I might dive into the stash and not just the sorting boxes, but the boxes are very handy, and are also what travels with me when I go to a fair or market. Very handy - and it saves searching through a big box of whorls and weighing them several times!

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... and even more CfPs...

It seems to be the season for CfPs - so here's some more:

The European Association of Archaeologists have extended their Call for the 30th Annual Meeting in Rome, Italy. The conference will run August 28-31, and the new deadline is February 12.  You can find out more about the conference and also the submission portal via their website.

There will surely be quite a few textile sessions there again, and one of them is Session #733, Interdisciplinary Approaches to the Archaeology of Roman Textiles. 

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