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MAI
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Tidings from Conferences.

ZM1First of all, I had a wonderful time at the conference on Friday - my paper went over very well, and all the other papers were uniformly interesting and well-presented. Plus I got to see a lot of old friends and colleagues again - and meet some new people.

And now, as promised last week, a bit of a report from NESAT...

The conference started off with an evening event, a lecture about - no, not textiles, but pile dwellings and their archaeology. Since pile dwellings are situated in watery areas, these settlements are often graced with textile and other organic remnants - so it was a topic close to textiles, yet not totally textile. The rest of the first evening was spent mingling and enjoying some wonderful food (a recurring topic during the following days), chatting with old acquaintances and meeting new faces.


The next day was the start of the conference proper, which took place in a building called "Salemer Pfleghof". That was a fantastic place to hold a conference - a nice, large room for the papers (and the book table), and right outside it a light, open space that could be opened up into a little courtyard to have the coffee breaks. And the papers... there were only fascinating papers.

The conference started out with some papers about methods and methodology - pictorial and written sources, of course strongly focused on textile topics, and documentation methods for in-situ-blocks (X-ray computer tomography) as well as techniques to identify fibres and dyes. Something that was utterly new to me was the possibility to get information about local or non-local provenance of fibres by doing Strontium-Isotope analysis, though this technique is still limited by contamination problems, low Sr content in fibres and of course the fact that similar Sr rations can occur in different places - so it is not possible to get true origins from this alone.

The next part of NESAT was focusing a little more on crafts, with a paper about crafts and creativity followed by a report about Gunnister Man and the reproduction of his clothes - 14 different garments made from 22 different fibres, painstakingly reproduced by Lena Hammarlund and Martin Ciszuk. (Oh, and if you need a well-dressed friend... Gunnister Man is on Facebook.) Another paper about a Migration Period textile find and one about basic research inside the framework of Dress ID rounded off the papers. And then the first day was already over, and almost magically, a lot of the NESAT gang met up again at the little café and restaurant next to the inofficial conference hotel - turned out that about half the participants were staying at the same spot. The weather was warm and nice enough to sit outside until everybody went to get some sleep, too.

The second day of the conference started with identification issues again - from XCT to analyse mineralised and carbonised neolithic textiles, fibre identification as an important part of analysis and quality evaluation to the use of proteins to identify animal species and even breeds. We heard something more about the use of Sr isotope analysis for provenance studies as well as about the use of light stable isotope analysis - carbon, nitrogen and hydrogen - to do a different kind of provenance analysis. Then some papers told us about finds - the utterly spectacular find of the Hammerum Woman from Denmark, where a complete 2nd/start of 3rd c AD garment was excavated out of an in-situ block; a paper about the re-examination of the Prachtmantel finds and their technique of production; and the puzzle of the garments of the "Lady of Cloonshannagh Bog" that were shredded by a modern peat-cutting machine. The afternoon was reserved for the poster presentation, and the early evening was garnished with wonderful food again, including delicious non-alcoholic cocktails (that was a surprise for all of us), and of course more talk. This evening also saw the ATN meeting.

Thursday was a shortened day, since this was also the excursion day; we heard about the use of pollen analysis to study the very well preserved organic remains of cave burials in Minorca with the aim of finding out about burial practices and rituals; pollen analysis on late medieval burials in Spain to discern practices from the first burial and the translocation and second burial from each other; and the rest of the papers this day were about finds and find analyis and partly also their interpretation.
Afternoon was reserved for the excursion; I went to Ludwigsburg to be fed with cake and be shown around the Fashion Exhibition, the conservation lab and the baroque gardens. It was a wonderful excursion, only much, much too short - we had some traffic problems on the way there which further shortened the time for the rather ambitious programme prepared for us by the conference organisers. The other conference participants went to Hochdorf and had a good look around the Keltenfürst museum there.

Then it was already the last day, starting off with a bang - the Lengberg finds of 15th century underwear, including bras. Other papers told us about high-quality wools and silks from Elbing, the discovery of a sheep washing installation in Wurt Hessens, hemp and linen in Talmud interpretations, the dyeing industry in Pompeii and finally tools and tool interpretation in two papers - one centering in Etruria, the other in Pannonia.
That ended the 11th NESAT - and there was an unofficial "concluding meeting" with more chatting and some scheming for the future that took place in the ice cream parlour, some more hanging out in the evening and the gradual departure of all the participants.

It was a glorious NESAT, and I'm already looking forward to the next one...
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MAI
20
3

Chaser Conference.

I'm at a (very) small conference today, my paper is the second one in the morning, and yes, I did finish its preparation in time.

And I finally figured out what made it so weird in preparation... it's mostly NESAT's fault. Because, when you come back from a place where you have been for a week and where somebody says "2/2 twill", everybody nods and goes "ok", or where you say "that sock from Coppergate", and the room goes "ah, that sock" - it is kind of hard to not feel weird when you prepare to explain in a paper how a hand-spindle works.
Plus I've only gone to international conferences during the last few years, and of course I did my papers in English - and today's little thing will be in German, and that also feels kind of weird.

I'm packing up now to head for the conference, and I'm trying to not feel weird.
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MAI
17
3

ATN friends wants you!

I've finished the current extra-urgent bit of work that was on my list yesterday night, and now I only have to wait for the piece to dry and bring it to the post office. And the rest of today? I'm taking it off. Yay.

But since I promised you more info from NESAT, I will at least tell you about the ATN meeting.
For those of you who have never heard of ATN, it is short for "Archaeological Textiles Newsletter". This has been an institution for quite a few years now, started way back on somebody's kitchen table and sent out as a biannual newsletter.

Nowadays, the ATN is put together, edited and sent out by a small group of people, and it used to be printed at the university press in Copenhagen. However, this printing possibility seems to have ended; the university wants to close its publishing department. And that in turn means the ATN has to make some changes for the future. It is planned to change it to an annual double volume instead of two volumes per year, and of course a new print shop has to be found. Plus a name change has been discussed - from "Archaeological Textiles Newsletter" to "Archaeological Textiles Review", since it seems that something called a newsletter is not worthy for external funding, while something called a review is.

These changes mean that the ATN (or ATR) will need a few more members to survive - so if you are not a subscriber yet, but interested in textile archaeology, please join the "Friends of ATN" (which is a subscription for one year, called membership because of some other bureaucratic issues) and help it survive! 
Anyone can join, you don't need to be affiliated with any university or research institute. And it is really worth it - there are always interesting articles in the newsletter, and the ATN regularly sees the first (or even the first and only) publication of a smaller textile find, or a preliminary results note about a work in progress. Subscribing is easily done via the secure webshop of ATN, and it's not expensive either - the one-year membership costs 20 Euro.


Oh, and of course you are welcome to spread the word...
 
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MAI
16
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Back home from NESAT!

I'm back home after NESAT and then a nice, full extra day to let the conference sort of end slowly instead of rushing home from the middle of things. It was exhilarating, with all the familiar faces to see again, and we enjoyed wonderful, mindboggling and really awesome papers. There was delicious conference food, enough coffee, a really tempting book table (some of the books magically found their way into my bag), there were even non-alcoholic cocktails and layer cakes! And a delightfully large amount of free time in the evenings to mingle and hang out together.

And like any good and proper conference, it was really exhausting. One week of speaking at least one foreign language a lot for most of us, in-depth discussions, science lingo and textile lingo and chemical formulas and isotope numbers, plus too little sleep - that's enough to wear a person out. So... more on NESAT during the next few days!
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MAI
10
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NESAT starts today!

One in every three years is a special year - because one in every three years it's NESAT year. NESAT, for those of you who don't breakfast textile conference proceedings, is short for North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles (though it is not only northern Europe nowadays), and it's THE conference for textile archaeologists.

And I'm really happy, because today, NESAT starts - and I'm there. Not presenting, just meeting up with friends and colleagues and having a really good time with the lots of awesome papers and topics.

Though I'm away, blogging will continue - I've been busy pre-blogging, and if everything goes as it should, you will have a daily post as usual.
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MAI
06
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Hooray! It's available - go download!

The moment has come - textile folks rejoice! Cathy stumbled across a new downloadable .pdf-publication on the Archaeology of York webpage, and this time, it's Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate by Penelope Walton Rogers. That book has been out of print for a good while, and I dimly remember checking its price once, years back, and deciding it was way too pricey for my student's budget.

Now it's available for free download! You will find the download page behind this link. Enjoy!

And now I'm returning you to your regularly scheduled reminder post...
It's May already, and the deadline for the Textile Forum is drawing closer.

So please do not forget to register if you would like to attend this year's European Textile Forum in Asparn an der Zaya, Austria. We are going to focus on linen and other vegetable fibres, and it does promise to be very, very interesting!
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MAI
04
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Call for Papers - Renaissance Society of America

This came to me via the MEDTC-Discuss list, and I'm passing it on as per the request in the mail:

Call for paper: Annual Meeting of Renaissance Society of America, 22-24 March 2012 , Washington DC, USA.

Panel: Veil and Veiling in Europe, 1450-1650: Revisiting

From St. Paul’s letter to the Corinthians and Tertullian’s ‘On the Veiling Virgins’ to the decrees of the Council of Trent, the veil, and the custom of veiling women’s hair, has historically been the premise of discourse regarding gender and religious identity in early and medieval Christian societies. However, the significance and function of the veil became far more complicated in early modern Europe than in previous centuries as early modern European society experienced a crisis of order. Both religious and civic leaders reinforced the need for women to cover their heads and emphasized the veil, including its fabric, style, and colour, as an indicator of women’s different social statuses and, most importantly, their personal and familial honour or shame. Because social norms necessitated that every woman own some form of headcovering, the act of veiling, the refusal to don a veil, or even the way that a woman chose to wear the veil could reveal her regional or ethnic identity, political affiliation, or religious confession.

By using multiple disciplines and sources, it is possible for scholars to put forth a variety of questions about early modern veiling practices, including:
1) How did early modern Europeans define, or redefine, the veil?
2) How has the tradition of veiling challenged during the movements of the Reformation and the
Counter-Reformation?
3) What were the contemporary religious accounts of veiling women’s hair?
4) How did women consider the necessity to veil themselves?
5) Because the custom of veiling could vary from place to place, to what extent could women negotiate their right of expressing themselves under the legislation of local government and religious authority?
6) What were the consumption patterns of headcoverings, in general?
Above all, the session aims to question how we can reconsider the female experience vis-à-vis the veil and the practice of veiling in early modern Europe. Therefore, we would like to invite papers that focus on fresh materials, new angles, or special cases regarding the object of the veil and the custom of veiling.
Given that this was a global issue in the early modern world, papers concerning Asia and the Middle East are also welcome and will be presented as contrasting examples.

Please e-mail a short CV and a 150-word draft to both Mary Kovel (University of Arizona) Diese E-Mail-Adresse ist vor Spambots geschützt! Zur Anzeige muss JavaScript eingeschaltet sein. and Chia-hua Yeh (Queen Mary, University of London) Diese E-Mail-Adresse ist vor Spambots geschützt! Zur Anzeige muss JavaScript eingeschaltet sein. by the 20th of May, 2011.


Thanks to Hilary Davidson and the AHRC Early
Modern Dress & Textiles Research Network list for this announcement.

For more information about the conference see http://www.rsa.org/?page=Washington2012
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