Heaps of things to take to the Forum, some larger, some smaller, are turning up at different spots hereabouts - sometimes three in a room, sometimes one. There's a stack of books, there are tools, there's a few canisters now to take the liquids along without them exploring the car illegally... there's materials and extra stuff and the whole documentation logistics like the camera and tripod and so on and so on.

I've started a second batch of bran water, using the starter from the last go, which will be fermenting for a few days now. I am also, since this morning, the proud owner of a lot of 250 ml lab glasses - of which a lot can fit into a single canning pot, and thus we can run a good number of sample dyeings at once.

 A waterbath is the tried-and-trusted method to have the same temperature curve for all the samples, and to do them at the same time. We've used that method before when doing dyeing experiments, but with the 1 l beakers, and only 5 or, at the most, 6 will fit into the pot.

If my math and rudimentary drawing skills are correct, we'll be able to fit 20 of the 250 ml beakers into the same pot easily. And though using the small pots means that we'll only be able to do very small samples, and run the risk of them being dyed not completely evenly, having the large number for a run seems, to me, to be an acceptable trade-off.

This, by the way, is one of the bits that I find both exhausting and fascinating when planning and doing archaeological experiments: The myriad decisions that you have to make. Smaller jars or larger ones? Sometimes things and processes don't scale well, and there's a point at which it becomes difficult to measure the very small amounts, plus the inevitable tiny differences will have a much larger impact. Natural substances (like raw, fresh tartar) or processed? The natural stuff or raw stuff may have components that change the outcome, but the processed pure form means it will be possible to repeat the experiment better. What to document, and how often? Sometimes taking measurements will disturb the process, but not taking them means you'll stand there lacking data. How many variables to test, and which ones are the important ones?

So, so many questions. There's a decision to make at every single step, and an experiment has a lot of steps, even if it's a simple one. So you make the decisions, and then you stick with them, and you hope they were the right ones!

(No blog post tomorrow, by the way - it's a holiday here.)

Well, the plan for the Madder Baselines is about done - the rest of the planning will have to be done as soon as we know how many samples there will be to handle, and then go for a last check through the long list of steps - before following them through to, hopefully, a nicely colourful end.

Meanwhile I have a second template to turn into a plan and protocol: the template for a mordanting experiment. Common Horsetail is said to contain quite a bit of alum, so it is in theory a replacement for mineral alum which may not have been available everywhere. However, it's not really clear if the horsetail is really suitable for this, mostly because there's no recipe that tells us about amounts necessary, or if there was any other preparation done before using it. Or at least I have not been able to find any...

So the idea was to try out if the plant will work as a mordant, and if yes, how much of it is needed. Because even if it's available, if you need ten times the amount of wool weight to have enough alum, well... that would mean 10 kg of the dried plant for a single kilo of wool, and if you've ever woven fabric, you know that a kilo is a puny amount.

I can think of three different methods of using the plant straight away: as it is (just dried, then soaked, and maybe boiled a bit previously to better get out the contents), fermented, or (which would also reduce the bulk of it) burnt to ashes (which should still contain the metal, though maybe in a different form). 

Obviously, the burning and the using as is do not need extra prep time, but the fermenting does. I'm happy to report that the 100 g of plant that I put into 7 litres of rain water are doing what they are supposed to be doing: Making bubbles and working on changing their smell.

It's not an unpleasant smell (at least not yet), but it is definitely much different from the smell it had at the start (like dried horsetail, but thank you, Captain Obvious). I'm very, very curious already to find out how (or if!) all this will work!

Planning an experiment is like planning a reconstruction - it's really, really easy to forget something. Where something can be a minor detail or, if one is a bit unlucky, something that seems like a minor detail at first but turns out to be rather crucial. 

 I've also found, in the number of experiments that I've either run, or co-run, or been somehow a part of, that it is quite easy to forget that one had planned to make photos at a specific point, or that something has to be changed and this all results in a number of hectic notes that are scribbled somewhere.

Part of that is just business as usual. Not every experiment runs as planned, and sometimes adjustments have to be made on the fly. But I found that good prep is really helpful... and that having a good template for the planning makes the good prep easier.

I've recently updated the experiment planning template on the Textile Forum website, and if you're interested, you can find it here. In case you are using it, please let me know if you have any comments or feedback - I'm always happy to hear about this!

If you're interested in clothing and understand German, there's a lecture series currently ongoing, organised by the Art History faculty in Vienna. There will be three presentations about clothes as items of daily life, the next one on Wednesday, November 15.

The presentations will be streamed via Zoom, and you can join in for free. You can find more information and the link on the website. 

These are madder roots from our garden, freshly dug out. They'll make part of the second part of our experiment on madder dyeing - using different batches of madder with the same water, and see how different they will come out.

Madder is said to get better the longer it matures - first in the ground, then once harvested, resting time of a few years is also said to make it better. But I figure that too-fresh madder may be better than no madder at all...

It will be dried now and then ground up, and I hope for a yield of at least 30 g afterwards (though in a pinch, 10 g would be enough). It would definitely be nice to have some more samples to test. So - do you happen to have a bit of dried madder to spare? Would you be willing to donate 10 to 30 g of it for our experiment?

Dyeing recipes are, well, let's say they often are interesting. And usually they will raise a lot of questions. And then some more.

First of all, just like old recipes for cooking, medieval and early modern dyeing recipes go easy on the measurements. Which makes a lot of sense because measuring stuff easily and precisely, like it's possible with modern scales, was not a thing back then. Also, just like with cooking food, variabilities can be quite large, which means that you'd have to gauge by experience if this is too much, too little, or just right.

And then there's the question of what is meant by a specific term. Such as... bran. That, it seems, can either be bran (as in wheat bran) just added to the dyebath, or it's fermented bran - if you let the stuff sit in a bit of water, it starts to ferment, turning slightly acidic.

Some of the recipes that we plan to look at during the Textile Forum also mention that as an ingredient - it also goes by the moniker "dyer's strong water" in some cases.

So guess what happened here in the kitchen?

It's fermented bran - I got a taste of it when I was in Romania, where it's called "borș", and it does have a quite pleasant taste. If you're curious now, you can read more about it in Wikipedia, and if you google for recipes, you will get some instructions about it. I tried with added (dry, actual Romanian) bread in the mix first, as many of the instructions tell you to, but I left it for a bit too long and the bread went mouldy. So in the second attempt, I used only bran and water - it took a bit longer for it to turn sour, but it was a success that time.

So now I'm looking forward to trying this in the dyeing! 

The weekend prep is continuing, and one of the tasks was to get the "show band" ready for... well... the show. Which meant finishing the half-done motif that was currently on there.

Last time I played around with that was way too long ago, and it was trying to freestyle copy the Evebø dog (or whatever it's supposed to be). I can't remember exactly what happened at some point when it was time to split the forelegs, but something must have happened. Maybe I made a mistake, or something came up and I had no more time, or - well. The result, in any case, was me stopping the weave for a while.

A long while.

So I now sat down, undid the last twists to make sure everything was aligned properly, fiddled with the tension, and tried to figure out where I'd been and what to do next. As usual in my attempts to do the doggy beast, it did not work out entirely as I had planned...

...so I have another slightly faulty, slightly weird and crooked animal to add to the zoo. One of these days, though, I'll manage to do one properly. Without weird butts, or weird forelegs, or weird eyes, or weird snouts and foreheads.

Anyway, the beast is done, and now I will add a little bit of white background (just a centimetre or two) before segueing into diagonals, which is what I have planned for the demonstration. 

Go see me in the Stadtmuseum on Saturday 20:00 to 22:30 to meet this little beast in person!